musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. LAir de Rien, narciso Rodriguez, essence, narciso Rodriguez for Her. Wearing it again on a sunny but blustery cool autumn day this year; I remembered why blood orange is one of my two favorite citrus fruits (yuzu being the other). Nasomatto, silver Musk, serge Lutens, muscs Koublai Khan.
I can really enjoy this, the rose is light and well blended. I'm looking at youse: Roja Dove, Kilian and Oncle Serge!* Atelier Cologne showed me niche doesn't have to hurt (your pocket, the planet or others) and has made me rethink putting my proverbial "nose in the air" when it comes to anything too "fancy shmancy". Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. (We secretly long for a job naming compounds like this.!). The genius is in the original! Now they offer a 100 ml size (costing only slightly more per.) and if I had the same option and bought that size then, I would nearly be out by now.
Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. Italian blood orange, tartly sweet, is flanked by a brighter more acidic red mandarin with Spanish bitter orange (bigarade)-balancing the fragrant pH and drawing out the berry-kissed nuances while wrapping them in zest oily pith. The opening-mid stays very balanced, from mid-drydown the rose comes to the fore, and the darker notes fade some, but the rose still stays light and fresh, doesn't get too girly. This is my favorite of the first five, followed closely by and constantly grappling with Oolang Infini, and a no nonsense cologne that brings to mind happiness and good times. And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by cites (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered. Combining the highest quality raw materials, they stayed true to the classic Farina cologne framework while "upping" the concentration beyond EDT and EDP, encroaching on Parfum, allowing it to project better and last infinitely longer. The rose is clearly a floral aspect here, but it has lost some of it's singular identity, blending into nice fresh and woody accords. Orange sanguine is where it all began. The more one studies its character that of natural elegance bremerhaven musk tincture, the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive-attractive, chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty-chocolate-like, pungent-leathery, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions. It smells like skin itself. I can't wait to try the extrait version. I, as a perfumista, was nearly ready to "throw in the towel" and live contentedly in a world of vintages, indie/artisan and natural perfumes; so jaded with the state of early twentieth century mainstream and masstiege markets and (to a lesser extent) niche perfumery.